마이클 엘리스 에스코트 시연 (방호 클래스)

dog is transporting the decoy he will try to escape at various times and your dog is penalized by how many meters the decoy is able to escape from your dog each time he tries. So part of the thrust of this exercise is to keep the dog very close to the decoy so that when he escapes he's right there to get him. And so what we want to do is that is very difficult to teach as a handler. So if I'm the decoy and you're the handler and you're trying to come up and position your dog where he should be next to me it's really difficult. So almost always we teach this with the decoy doing the teaching. The decoy takes the leash and shows the dog where he should be and when he gets to that place the decoy gives him a bite and it's sort of like the decoy is acting like a big tug toy to the dog and you're showing and he's showing the dog where to position himself in relation to the decoy. So frequently if you do this with your own dog it works a lot better than if a stranger does because your own dog is used to taking direction from you. He's used to you moving around with a leash so he doesn't resist it. So when I'm teaching the dog I say out come here bite and he has no problem taking that from me but if it's a certain kind of dog he might have a big problem taking it from somebody else like hey I don't know you you can't pull me around on my leash like we talked about before. So you'll see some of the technicalities of the exercises that we want to teach it and where it might be beneficial to do bite work with your own dog or teach certain exercises to your own dog away from the bite work. So if I try to get away whatever leg I kick he's going to bite the other leg. So if my left leg kicks high then he'll bite the other leg. If my right leg kicks he'll bite the other leg. Halt. So if I stop he'll lay down and guard me. If I try to stick my hand in his face and block it so he won't come with me. He'll push in harder. So we teach him like hey my hands are a right leg kicks, he'll bite the left leg. Halt. So if I stop, he'll lay down and guard me. And if I try to stick my hands in his face and block him so he won't come with me, he'll push in harder. So we teach him like, hey, my hands are a trick, and he'll shove past my hands to get in there so in case the decoy tries to go. Give the dog a stay signal or something like that, like, hey, stay there. Dog's like, ah, trick, he'll just push past you. And initially this was all taught with the dog on a leash, and I taught him a command. So at first it was taught with the dog in front of me backing up where I could see him.

So when I initially taught him, I had the dog on a leash, and every time he let go, I pulled him just like this. And then I would go, right, and I would pop him off and give him a bite. And then he comes in here. This would be done with a leash. And then if I walked, eventually I put a command to go around behind. I say place, and he goes around behind me. And I taught that with food away from the Bible. So we had a command to go around from the front to the back. So once you do a good in front with me walking backwards, then I do it the other way. So when I first taught him, I actually had a seat cushion and put it down the back of my ass. And he learns that all these things are not escapes, that he should stay close, and they're not escapes. The only thing that's escape is if I make a quick move to get away from the dog. So if I go like that, then that's an escape. Hi! And all the other stuff is like just trickery. I can move around, I can step over things, I can bump him into stuff, and he should keep, that's not an escape, and he should learn that the quick move is the escape. So in the beginning, we do everything kind of in slow motion, so that we obviously emphasize the escape on the dog. And then as we go, I make it harder, I move more, and then he has to judge the difference between that stuff and me really trying to escape. And none of that is, then I can go. And when I run, he should grab, and he should grab the leg. Bye! So you can see, this is one of those things that would be very hard for the handler to teach. So if you're walking behind, and the decoy doesn't have any input for the dog, and you're trying to run up to the dog every time he lets go and stick him where he needs to go, that'd be incredibly cumbersome. But if I have a leash on him here, then I can give him feedback every time he does something wrong. So when he gets out of position, I go, ah, place, pop him back into position. He takes a dirty bite when I wasn't escaping, I say, uh-uh, no, and I give him a little correction. And then he learns this thing. But the timeliness of the feedback is almost impossible for a handler standing away. So the way they used to teach it years ago is the handler did it all, but the dogs weren't this close. The dogs would basically walk backwards in front of the guy or something. But the change in suits and stuff like that has made it such that if your dog walks backwards a foot away from the guy, the guy's going to get a mile on your dog every time he takes off because the guys are so fast now. And he should do this until the cows come home, ideally.

So the counter thing I did with my hand, we talked about before. So you see if I put my hand down there, he pushes into me. Then I do the same thing with the stick. And then he counters in and the stick goes away. Then you put the stick down there, he counters in and the stick goes away. So eventually you teach the dog that if somebody does this, he should dig into them. If somebody does this, he should dig into them. So it's all just a taut countering technique. He likes to push that way, but we teach him to do that in response to threat. Good. Thanks. Thanks. Thank you. Thank you.