마이클 엘리스의 새 강아지를 위한 집안 환경 준비하기

of time individually in crates. And that makes it way easier for them as they go forward. But many people don't. A puppy's been sleeping with brothers and sisters for eight weeks in a pile, and they haven't been in a crate, and somebody goes, stuff, see ya, and you go. And so there can be varying degrees of screaming, yelling, fits, and that kind of stuff. So that's going to be a big part of it. If my puppy hasn't been in a crate, I'm going to bring the puppy home. You're going to do all the things we talked about in terms of introducing the crate, running in out for treats, controlling energetics, winding that puppy down before you put them into the crate, giving them stuff to chew on, potentially covering them, potentially buying earplugs, things like that, right? So that you can get through those early crate training things. I don't do a lot of formal training when I first bring a puppy home. So I'm not so concerned with starting to charge my markers or lure the puppy around or any of that kind of stuff. I do a little bit of just relationship building to begin with. I might show the puppy how to take food out of my hand. I'm going to show the puppy the space and get him comfortable. I'm going to, through protected contact, have the puppy see my other dogs coming and going and things like that, but not necessarily go right up and play with them. So I get an idea of is my puppy scared of that kind of stuff. And I'm going to sort of just gradually integrate it. And usually the puppy's home a week or so before I really start worrying about training issues as I bring the puppy in. It's more like, okay, get comfortable with space, get to know me, start to like me, all that kind of stuff. I'm also reading the puppy in this period of time. We're getting an idea of what my puppy's like. What's it afraid of? What's it not afraid of? How much does it like being touched and handled and all that kind of stuff? How motivated is it? Like if I wave something around, does it want to chase it? If I get food, does it rip the ends of my fingers off? Or is it like, I'm not sure about that. A lot of puppies, when they leave the litter or younger dogs like that, haven't necessarily had anybody do any training stuff. They may not know how to take food from your hand. It's not uncommon. I have puppies that have been fed in bowls and on the ground and things. And the first time you have food in your hand and you let them smell it, they start running around sniffing the ground.

They're like, food's down there. It's not in somebody's hand. And so you may go through all those basic things and you get an idea of what your puppy's like, meaning where you're going to start to put your energy. Pretty quickly, in the first few days, I start my field trips. I do not put off the socialization at all, right? And so that means habituating my puppy to the equipment that I'm going to use when I have them out in the world. My puppy doesn't necessarily need a leash off when they're in my, leash on them when they're in my house, but I either get them used to their harnesses, get them used to a collar and leash. So there's a whole habituation process where they get used to that. I have them wear the collar, wear the harness, drag a leash behind, do food stuff to get them used to those things, so that I can start taking them out into the world to socialize them. And then all the socialization guidelines. And with puppies, I try to take them a lot of different places. It's useful to kind of plan a socialization regime, so you're making sure you're getting out to a variety of different places and seeking out different kinds of experiences. We've talked about the equipment that you want to get before you bring your puppy home to be prepared. And also, we're going to talk a little bit about setting up your house to make it easy for managing your puppy when you get the puppy home. We all talk in our lectures about areas of inclusion and areas of exclusion, our isolation, where we can have the puppy learn to be by itself in a quiet space and some of the tools that we're going to talk about. So as you come into our space here, you want to set up the flow, especially with younger puppies, so it's easy to get the puppies in and out of your space. Housebreaking requires that you be able to get the puppy outside quickly, frequently. And so if you put your crate in the upstairs back bedroom, that's going to be difficult for you. And so when we're introducing it, here's our older dog, Sunny, on one of the Coranda beds. You can see how we use the elevated beds as a placeholder. We have our wire crate over here. And the wire crate we use primarily for inclusion work with our puppies. So the puppies are in the crate when we don't want to have to supervise them. And we use those crates so that they can feel more open, they can see what's going on around them. Obviously, we need to control arousal levels around these things. So if your puppy can see out, there's a lot of other activity that might stimulate your puppy and teach bad crate habits.

And so when quiet, calm time is happening, the puppy may be in there so they feel more a part of what's going on. And then over here we have an X-Pen. And we use our X-Pens a lot for puppies to have a little more freedom. They feel like they're out. It's a great way of having them feel like they're included in the family unit, but they can't run over and jump on our other older dog on the bed, or they can't get in trouble, they can't wander off and chew on things. So I supervise them in there to make sure that they can't get out, they don't start jumping against the sides. But that's a great way of including your puppy in the environment, while they have a slightly more freedom than they would have in a crate. And you'll notice that it's easy to get outside to any of our doors from this spot, so we can run the puppy out. We've set up another crate, and you don't need more than one crate, but if you don't have more than one crate, then you're going to wind up shifting them back and forth a lot. And so we have another crate, a plastic crate in the den here, where we can take the puppy in. And you notice we have a cover over the top of that. Frequently when we're teaching puppies to be calm in a quiet place, we want to cover the crate so they can't see anything. And we can also close this door in here. So the puppy, when we're working on isolation work, whether it's for teaching the dog to be by themselves, whether it's building motivation, all those sorts of things, we have a separate area. And it's easier if I have a crate in that area already, so that I can easily move the puppy back and forth without having to drag my crate around. And again, easy access to the outside in case we need to get the puppy out for house breaking. You may have noticed also over on our crate, our wire crate over there, when we're working, I have a set of baggie of treats set on top of the crate. I have a tendency to stash these things all over the house when I'm working. Right? So I put them by the back door, I put them by the front door, I put them in the laundry room, I'll put treats in various places where they're easy for me to grab. So when I'm managing my puppy and moving them in and out of the crate and around the space, it's easy for me. The easier you make your setup, the more likely you are to follow your management regime.

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